Straddle the Turtle

On Passion Sunday this year we traveled for the first time to Belgium to visit the grave of my husband’s birth-father, Sergeant Robert G. Grant. He was killed during the Battle of the Bulge on December 17, 1944. We viewed the battle grounds and climbed around blown up bunkers. As we followed our guide, it did not seem like WWII happened more than 80 years ago. History came alive as we experienced being where lines of enemy tanks barreled through the forests, their explosions snapping and splintering tree tops creating additional shrapnel-like projectiles, and scarring the land.

Our initial accommodations were in the historic city of Aachen, Germany at the Parkhotel Aachen Quellenhof, which was largely destroyed during WWII but has since been magnificently restored. Our family (a group of eight able to make this trip) took a short morning drive to experience a private tour, specifically curated to educate us on what Bob’s father experienced as he fought for our freedom. I would like to publicly thank our guide Joël Lamberty (guideardenne44.com). His devotion to helping families like ours visit the graves of their loved ones, his passionate interest, detailed research, professional approach, respect and care were such a blessing. He led us through the forest walking where Robert Grant’s regiment, the 78th Infantry Division, was fighting the day he was killed.

I love walking Roxy & Ringo through the woods around our neighborhood, but there – even with the soft breeze in the trees and chirping birds in the gray sky – I believe all of us were individually imagining in our own thoughts what it was like during the attacks. Especially Bob, who was only 9 months old when he lost his father during this battle.

Looking forward to this journey we didn’t really know what to anticipate in the coming days of exploration. I think it was a powerful experience to view the maps and actual battlegrounds before visiting the Henri-Chapelle Cemetery. The cemetery is kept immaculately clean; an enormous field of green with white marble crosses in orderly rows. Joël was our escort toward where Bob’s father was laid to rest. As we approached the cross he gave way for us to gather around together. Then my husband moved closer and reached out his hand to touch the smooth marble.

These were sacred, precious moments none of us present will ever forget. Photos were taken to share with those who could not be with us.

Following this we lunched with our guide at one of his favorite spots. Then we enjoyed his friends’ invitation for a private tour of their “Remember Museum 39-45”. This is a museum that Marcel and Mathilde Schmetz have built and curated for over 60 years. It contains more than 100 mannequins, several dioramas within an area 700 square meters, a Sherman tank, and many personal souvenirs.

Mathilde thankfully accepted our memory cards with pictures to add to their display cases. The video tour on their website is worth watching if you’re a history buff: Remember Museum Mathilde speaks English, but her husband speaks French. Though I couldn’t understand his every word, it was to nice see him tell about the museum. During our visit he was in ill health and not present. The video is about 20 minutes long, and I urge anyone to view it to the end to realize how much our country’s help is appreciated in this part of the world.

They don’t forget – and they don’t want us to forget – how grateful they are for the Americans who sacrificed for their freedom. While the the rest of our group was waiting outside to drive to our next appointment, I had a private moment with Mathilda in her kitchen. She emphasized these sentiments to me again and gave me her contact information and a big hug as I was being called to join the others.

At the cemetery’s info office we learned of this cemetery’s program for “adopting” graves. Bob’s father’s grave was adopted by Inie Blokland, a woman living nearby in the Netherlands. She and Bob have since communicated via text, email and photos. She is thrilled to finally learn about Sgt. Grant’s surviving family and recently placed a bouquet of roses at the headstone.

Emotions buried long ago began to surface more and more during our travel, so it was good to experience it with the comfort of family. We were able to relax from some of the intensity of our feelings during the rest of the week. We had private tours in Ghent including a canal tour, in Brugges (beer and chocolate tasting), and a “beer tasting” tour in Brussels.

Everywhere we experienced delicious food at delightful restaurants.

And soon it was Easter, a day to rest and wander freely before our return home. Bob had a strong desire to begin this day by attending a Catholic Mass, the religion of his parents. It was celebrated in French. He understood more than I could, but the priest’s soft melodic message communicated love and peace to me. The rest of the day he and I roamed the streets, anonymously absorbing the vibe of this foreign country and letting our psyches begin to process the enormity of what our hearts and minds had experienced during this trip.

Remember the final scene in The Graduate? Dustin Hoffman and Katherine Ross are sitting in the back of a bus having just escaped the wedding where she’s about to say “I do” to a man her parents preferred. They have big smiles on their faces like they just accomplished something amazing!

This photo of us makes me think of that. But ours is more than just the feeling of accomplishment. It is also of deep gratitude, because our kids interrupted their normal lives and requirements to make this happen. It was for Bob’s 80th birthday celebration.

As for the impact on the rest of our family, I will quote Bob’s older son:

It took all of our lifetimes but we finally managed to visit the man responsible for it all. We visited my Grandfather’s grave site in Belgium. He died a hero defending our country in WW II at the famous Battle of the Bulge. To see my Father, see his Father’s tombstone for the first time in his 80 years, was deeply moving. We brought three generations to show him how much his life meant. To the original Grantpop and all of those who serve, our deepest thank you for your service and the ultimate sacrifice. Your name and memory live on. Forever Young.

Links:

1. Joel Lamberty’s website link: https://guideardenne44.com
2. Remember Museum website link: http://www.remembermuseum.be
3. Finally for your listening pleasure, the lovely cantor at the Mass we attended in Brussels, mezzo-soprano Aveline Monnoyer seen here on YouTube performing Sposa son Disprezzata: https://youtu.be/CwGaWseIPtI?si=5n23JSzpK6IJNhPb